Too many Chinas

In my many yearly travels back home to China, I’ve taken the route through Hong Kong. An arduous 15 hour plane ride from SFO to HKG, followed by another two hour train ride into mainland China back to Guangzhou. Factoring in commuting and wait times, it’s an easy 24 hours from closing the door to my home, to opening the door to the hotel. Why put myself through such pilgrimage year after year? The food. Cantonese cuisine is undefeated.

A slight pain-point when taking the transfer through Hong Kong is that you’re essentially crossing two borders. Hong Kong customs welcomes you in HKG, while China customs checks you again before you’re allowed to board the train. This is a logistical inconsistency that undermines the whole “One China” attitude. If it’s truly One China, then why the heck am I subjected to two sets of immigration checks? The Hong Kong one at the airport should more than suffice.

Then there’s restrictions on how frequent Chinese nationals can visit the Special Administrative Regions like Hong Kong and Macau. Restrictions that logically should not exist if it is truly one China. That would be like if I’m only allowed to visit Florida - as a Californian - for only a few weeks out of the year. Though that would be just fine because I’ve zero desire to visit Florida. Everybody knows the best Disney theme park is the one in Tokyo, Japan.

The One China policy is a mere political bluster; a power-play by the reigning communist regime. The party’s legitimacy is predicated on being recognized by the outside world as the de facto China. Anything that can threaten that legitimacy - however small - must be censored immediately. You think the Taiwanese national team really wants to compete in world sports under the “Chinese Taipei” banner?

Come to think of it, why allow athletes from Hong Kong and Macau compete under anything but China? One China, one national team, right? If anything, Taiwanese athletes, you guys come on over as well!

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Hand-pulled salty chicken is worth the 15 hour flight.

HKG is not the same

I bought plane tickets for my trip back home to Guangzhou way back in June of last year, well before the Hong Kong protests started. I then - along with the rest of the world - saw the uprisings happen, and the mess have lingered and continued on into 2020. My father joked that there is no way the protests will last the many months to coincide with our trip through Hong Kong, and yet there we were two weeks ago, flying into HKG whilst protest was scheduled to happen in the city yet again that very day.

It’s a shame, because the Hong Kong part of the trip on the way to Guangzhou is something I enjoy immensely, well worth the extra four hours it takes to fully complete the journey compared to flying directly into Baiyun International. Some years I even spend a few days or a week in Hong Kong before going home. It’s a city I have great affinity for, but unfortunately due to the demonstrations, I was unable to do my usual tour. Rather not risk any potential clashes, though I do wonder what the protesters think of a person like me: born in mainland China, but is now a citizen of the United States.

Anyways, the game plan then was to immediately hop on a direct bus to Guangzhou right at the airport. Upon exiting out into the arrivals lobby, I immediately knew that these were not normal times: they’ve shut down the outbound transport terminal, which used to be in an external building. Instead, the ticketing for buses are now inside Terminal 1 itself. After purchasing our tickets, we walked through guarded doorways to get to our waiting hired car, which is something I’m so not used to seeing in what is one of the safest metropolises on the planet. Surrounding the airport itself are many police barriers and fencing, a legacy from the unrest that reached HKG last year.

Coming back into Hong Kong for the flight home was different as well. We took the same direct bus in the reverse direction, and it’s when we arrived outside the departure deck that things got interesting. The entrances to the terminal are cordoned off by police barricades, third-world checkpoint style. To get in, you have to show your passport, and either the flight confirmation or boarding pass. I’m not even sure they would let family or friends who are seeing you off to go inside with you. The price of fighting for liberty, as it were.

I have no dog whatsoever in the Hong Kong situation. I only selfishly hope that on my next trip home, HKG -and Hong Kong - will be back to what it were: a fabulous airport that’s one of my favorites.

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Graffiti in China? Only if they let you.

Will the Hong Kong passage be open?

I have a selfish concern regarding my annual year-end trip back home to China. As per usual, we are flying into Hong Kong and then taking the train into Guangzhou. Normally there’d be no problem with this, and I’ve always enjoyed spending a bit of time in the city before heading for true home. This year, however, as you may all know, there’s massive protests going on in Hong Kong, and as it stands right now, I don’t see it abating any time soon.

So the selfish question is: am I going to have issues getting through Hong Kong? I mean, protestors did shutdown the airport a few weeks back; it’s difficult to predict if it will escalate back to that level again. I’ll be slightly annoyed if my well-prepared travel plans get altered due to the protests.

That is not to say I don’t sympathize with the people of Hong Kong in fighting for a no strings attached governance from mainland China. As a person who lives in the free West, I think democratic values and basic freedoms are worth fighting for, and if Hong Kong feels like this is the moment to die on the proverbial hill, then all the power to them. One can certainly disagree with the protestor’s tactics or their demands in general, but for those of us on the sidelines looking in, I think we have to remember that we don’t live in Hong Kong, the protestors do, and I trust they’d know best what they want for their future.

That is also not to say I’m antagonistic towards China. Guangzhou is my hometown, and I have many family members there; I am not going to state (or tweet) anything negative towards the communist government that can potentially get me banned from entering my home country, to be cut off from my extended family. That is my skin in the game, and the incentive is to preserve my entry and exit privileges. I simply want to make a trip home every year without fuss.

Because of the situation in Hong Kong, this year we are not heading into the city proper, and instead, taking the shuttle bus to Guangzhou right at the airport. It’s a shame because I absolutely adore Hong Kong, and would have loved to sightsee there for a few days.

Maybe next year.

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I don’t care if the reliability is highly suspect: Apple’s ‘butterfly’ keyboard is wonderful to type on.

Priorities change

In a few weeks’ time I will be once again traveling back home to Hong Kong, performing the annual pilgrimage to visit family on my dad’s side. These past few years I’ve been on quite the travel binge, and the trip back home at the end of December crossing over into January marks the culmination and the beginning of a year’s worth of journeys. I’ve said to my friends that my favorite spot in San Francisco is the airport’s international terminal, where anticipation and excitement for the trips ahead is at its most palpable.

I have to say the feeling is surprisingly different this year. No question I am happy to spend time with family, especially those whom I only see once a year, but the run up to this year’s return home has a slight bit of dread to it. I found out the reason why when I started doing my usual preparation of buying necessary supplies and moving money to travel accounts: this trip to Hong Kong will cost money.

What a stupid thing to say; traveling inherently costs money, doesn’t it? Why am I loathing to spend when this trip has been booked since January (got to lock down those cheap airfare prices). Just the past few years alone I’ve spent easily into the five figures on travel, so what’s the problem now?

Right, I’m saving up for a 911.

As they say, priorities change. Since 2014 I’ve been on a bent to maximize travel opportunities, so most of my discretionary income was allocated towards that. Partly why I switched from a Subaru WRX STI to a Mazda MX-5 in 2015 was because the latter was cheaper to run and maintain, therefore more money towards trips. Now, the situation has reversed: austerity measures were put on traveling (I haven’t taken one single trip this year), and the growing cash reserves is earmarked towards cars.

The Hong Kong trip this year is going set me back a bit on those cash reserves, which I think is why I’ve been ambivalent about it rather than pure delight of years past. I’ve had a good run in seeing the world these past couple of years, but it’s time to switch primary focus back to another love of mine: cars. For sure I still love traveling, and there’s still many places I haven’t been (not one foot in European soil yet); surely I’ll get back on that train in a few years’ time.

For now, it’s 911 or bust.

The best colors for an instrument dial: black face, white letters, red needle.